Fes (or Fez)

So far, my favorite Moroccan city to date. The city is full of families who have lived and worked there for generations – in the same house and trade for years! The people all rely on each other to get what they need for daily life. There are bakeries, potters, mosaic tile artists, tanneries, clothing dye stores, street food vendors, and weavers to name a few. You’ll see the city’s residents go meet with other families to trade and spend time together. Although a large metropolis, it has the small town feel due to all the families knowing each other for years, as well as the small Old Medina area. Our tour guide mentioned that people don’t leave Fes. Most will stay in Fes, taking on the family trade (or becoming a tour guide!).

You’ll find three major religions coexisting peacefully in Morocco – Berber (Sunni Islam), Islam, and Judaism. For me, this was incredible to see, given the conflicts in the Middle East right now. Mosques and temples are scattered throughout the Old Medina (Fes el Bali).

The medina of Fes was founded in the 9th century, around the same time Islam arrived in Morocco. Many of the buildings scattered throughout the medina are from this period, but renovated to keep up with modern times, although still retaining the original structure and character of that time period. Fes was actually the capital of Morocco until 1912; thus, the city feels like a major metropolis and cultural center of the country. It might take you only 30 minutes to walk across the medina by distance, but the streets are so narrow and convoluted, it’s easy to get lost (in a good and bad way)!

GENERAL RECOMMENDATIONS:

• Stay at a “Riad” in the heart of the Old Medina, which essentially means garden or courtyard. It is a traditional Moroccan home with a central garden or courtyard. We stayed at Riad Dar Bensouda and absolutely loved it! Most riads are located within the old medina, meaning you’ll have to make the trip by foot for a bit. No need to be worried about luggage. I recommend calling where you’re staying, and they’ll arrange for someone to help you with the luggage and navigating the streets when you arrive.
• Go with a local guide for a least one day. You’ll see places best known by the locals and walk narrow streets you can barely fit through – and won’t regret it!
• Spend at least a couple days in Fez. You’ll be able to see all the main hot spots and have some time for a hammam!
• Always bargain. The shopkeepers will tell you when you’ve gone too low in price! My recommendation is paying at least 20-40% of what their initial number is. The rule is you start low, then work your way to the middle. Know how much you’re willing to spend before you go in!
• Carry tip money (dirhams is the currency – or dh). It’s customary to tip in most situations – even if you want to take a picture of a local. I found this website helpful, if you’re looking for more info.
• Plan a hammam afternoon. This is a Moroccan tradition inspired by the Roman bathhouses. It’s a social event as much as it is a spa! I recommend Le Jardin des Biehn, especially if it’s your first time or the concept of the traditional experience isn’t as comfortable for you. There, you’ll get a bit of the traditional experience, but on your own. Read here for more on the hammam. The steps vary depending on the place, so research before to avoid surprises!

THINGS TO DO/PLACES TO SEE:

• Borj Nord (Musum of Arms)
• Dar Batha (Batha Museum)
• Bab Bou Jeloud – the coolest gate that is blue on one side and green on the other [represents blue at entrance welcoming to the city, and the Islamic religious color green to bid you luck when you leave the gates]
• Place Safarine
• Fes el Jdid (new Fes) – see the Gates of Fes El Jdid of the Royal Palace [seven gold gates displaying gorgeous classical Fes design]
• Chouara Leather Tannery – the smell is terrible so bring some mint to keep close to your nose!
• Madrasa al-Attarine – “madrasa” means school and this is one of the most iconic ones!
• Bou Inania Madrasa
• Marinid Tombs – a popular lookout over the city

Our guide took us to some of his friend’s shops – each family supports one another with trading of their goods. See some pictures below of each trade!

We visited Casablanca, Marrakech, and Fes in Morocco, but liked Fes the best. It had the essence of what makes Morocco unique and beautiful, without too many tourists. The prices were a lot more reasonable, and it was neat to see life uninterrupted of the Fes people. Many of the residents still conduct business and life as it was centuries ago!

FOOD/RESTAURANTS TO EAT:

• Eden at Palais Armani
• L’Amandier at Palais Faraj
• Nur Restaurant
• Moroccan pastry – “Kaab el ghazal” (“Gazelle’s horn”) *as seen below picture on the right in the rectangular tray
• Jben – special Moroccan cheese
• Khlea – Moroccan preserved meat

If you want to buy leather, rugs or woven goods, I have business cards with the owner’s information of trusted shops I’ve visited! See the rugs I bought above. The quality and durability are unmatched. Send me a message and I’d love to share 🙂 happy travels friends xo