Marrakech (and Morocco generally!)

If the city could be defined in one word, it would be “commercialized”, as in on the touristy side, unfortunately, but that means it has upsides and downsides. I learned Morocco has different vibes, depending on where you are in the country and what you want to experience! A brief description of other cities, and hopefully helpful information for your visit, tailoring your own experience:

• Casablanca: the modern port of Morocco, and a common connection between cities, but not much to see. It functions as Morocco’s main economic and business center. We did see the 3rd largest mosque – Hassan II Mosque, which I recommend if you’re there! Hate to say it but you won’t miss out on much if you skip this city.
• Tangier: the northernmost city of Morocco. Because it’s close to Spain, there are significant Spanish influences. This is on my list to go, as it’s easy to take a ferry across the Strait of Gibraltar to visit south Spain (Granada, Valencia, Seville, Malaga)!
• Fes: *see Fes post*! Fes and Marrakech are great launching points for Atlas Mountain excursions – be warned, that the trek out there isn’t short! If I did Morocco again, I’ll for sure stay in Fes mostly, then get to the desert life from there.
• Merzouga: all the Sahara Desert action here! It used to be a desert oasis, now it’s mostly sand dunes – a gate to Erg Chebbi.
• Ouarzazate: nicknamed “Morocco’s Hollywood” – this is where Gladiator, The Mummy and the recent season of Outer Banks was filmed. While here, you must visit Aït Benhaddou, a ksar/kasbah in the area. It’s considered a great example of Moroccan earthen clay architecture and has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1987.
• Essaouira: Morocco’s best beach town recommended from a few people consistently. Many people come here just to relax. We didn’t get a chance to go, but again this one is on my list!

And now, we finally get into Marrakech. To be honest, most of what we saw in Marrakech, we saw something similar yet more authentic in Fes. However, because of its touristy vibes, it’s less intimidating for someone who has never visited an African or Middle Eastern country.

The gardens are an absolute must-see in Marrakech. See pictures below from two of them. The most famous ones are Jardin Majorelle and Le Jardin Secret. Le Jardin Secret has a cute cafe; a great place to read a book or have a Moroccan mint tea at sunset. Jardin Majorelle (originally designed by Jacques Majorelle, a French artist) was rediscovered by fashion designers Yves Saint-Laurent and Pierre Bergé, who restored it. Jardin Majorelle offers a few museums nearby – Islamic Art Musuem and Yves Saint-Laurent Museum (YSL). It’s busy and felt like we couldn’t linger there due to the crowds.

Know that you’ll need tickets in advance for Jardin Majorelle, as well as the YSL Musuem. Click on the links for each to buy. We bought them only a few days in advance, but these places don’t have kiosks where you can buy the tickets in person.

We had a lot of fun in the Old Medina. Walking around, observing the shoppers/shopkeepers and trying new foods. Sean was a huge fan of the tajines (slow cooked meats in Moroccan pottery), and I couldn’t get enough of the mint tea!

GENERAL TIPS.

• Marrakech bargained less than Fes. Where there were stickers on items with a fixed price in dirhams, I wasn’t able to negotiate. However, that price was pretty common across all shops for the specific item (ex: a deck of cards was about 60 dh, and I was unable to find or negotiate cheaper).
• Looking at items in the shop will guarantee attention from the shopkeeper. Of course, they want you to buy! Don’t feel uncomfortable saying no thank you and moving on. For the most part our “no” was respected. A deer in the headlights look will undoubtedly draw attention on yourself. Take that how you will LOL
• Be aware of staged situations. Morocco is taking steps to actively punish (via prison time and fines) if someone is reported taking advantage of the tourists. We had someone try to ask us to pay the equivalent of $100 for parking our rented car, and it wasn’t an official employee working nor an appropriate price. Lesson: have your hotel/riad help you out upon arrival!
• People WILL ask for money for everything. Tipping is common but do research to know how much is customary (I wrote about this in the Fes article), and situations where it is warranted. It’s helpful to carry cash for this! This might come up if you ask for directions (or someone gives you directions unsolicited). To minimize this – feel free to say no, walk away to regroup, or sporadically check Google Maps to ensure you’re headed the right way, rather than having your eyes glued to your phone on the journey.
• It’s not necessary to stay in a riad in the Old Medina. While it is more fun, you will walk further with your luggage upon initial arrival and departure (walking-only roads), but you’ll be able to experience life in a richer way! However, there are a few notable and lovely hotels outside the Medina, especially if you’re wanting a hotel room with more space or a commercial spa close by.
• Many food places/restaurants won’t have an alcohol menu. This is because Morocco is a predominantly Muslim. I marked the restaurants that did not serve alcohol with a * below.
• Try a hammam! If you’re intimidated by the traditional experience, you’ll find one that is more private, or in between, in Marrakech. We went to Mythic Oriental, confirming the appointment a day before via WhatsApp.

PLACES TO EAT (in no particular order)

• Sahbi Sahbi – make a reservation far in advance! Super popular
• Pétanque Social Club (definitely my personal favorite)
• Maison Reine* (also a cute clothing store!) – PLZ order the pistachio or grapefruit pavlova you won’t regret it
• Bacha Coffee House* – must buy entry into Bacha Palace first, and it does fill up fast, so this is a great morning spot
• Cafe de Espices* – great for a quick bite in the Spices Square, taking a shopping break
• Nomad* – this was a lunch or afternoon spot for me because it had a great rooftop
• Naranj* – Levantine cuisine & very original; great rooftop
• Dar Yacout* – in a riad
• +61 – cute and vibey, seasonal food
• Amal Centre* – truly cannot recommend this place more!! It’s a non-profit organization that supports women on their journey toward financial independence.
• Kabana Rooftop Food & Cocktails – 10/10 vibes
• Shams Rooftop* – on top of the Monde des Arts de la Parure Museum, and not busy but great food & views

DON’T MISS THESE SIGHTS.

• Le Jardin Secret
• Jardin Majorelle
• Palais El Badii
• Ben Youssef Madrasa
• Bab Agnaou Gate
• Bahia Palace
• Jemaa el Fna (basically the main square of the Old Medina) – if you stay around this area and wander the streets, you’ll experience all the souks!

Lastly, I have to mention our riad. We stayed at Sakkan, and 10/10 we would stay there again! The restaurant was incredible and served cocktails on the rooftop. They had a signature scent I bought because every time we walked in the smell was lovely!! The staff were extremely helpful, making reservations for us and generally available for assistance!

As you can see, I had a LOT to say about Morocco. This has been a dream for me to experience! People have misconceptions about Morocco, and I’m happy to shed light on those. I do experience similar aspects of Moroccan culture living in Egypt, which made traveling here easier. However, we experienced many unique and wonderful Moroccan things! The people are very open-minded and welcoming. The infrastructure and organization of the city was straightforward to navigate.

Reach out if you have any questions! I love talking travel and helping people learn about new places. The world is a beautiful place if your heart is open to see and experience it 🙂 xo Lisa